M&S Percy Pig Phizzy Pigtails - 170g

Percy Pig is M&S's own sweet, and in Britain he is practically a public figure. The pink pig gums sit by every M&S food hall till, and the Phizzy Pigtails take the same cheerful pig and give him a fizzy, curly twist.

There is no M&S food hall round the corner here, so the bag you used to pick up without thinking becomes the thing you text visitors about before they pack. People search for them because nothing else quite tastes like being dragged round M&S on a Saturday.

The 170g bag is a sharing size, in theory. Fold the top over, keep it somewhere cool and dry in the cupboard, and it will last as long as your willpower does. They go into lunchboxes, film nights and the desk drawer you pretend is for stationery.

Percy rarely travels alone. People tend to put a bag in the basket next to other British sweets, a packet of proper biscuits and a box of tea, which is more or less the M&S shopping trip, rebuilt in Canada.